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Thread: Spool Device

  1. #51
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    Erron and I will put them through their paces. If they don't fail on the dyno they'll make it to the road course. If they live there I think anyone who drag races would be plenty happy with them.

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    Please post up results and impressions.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Brilliant View Post
    '86-'88 turbo II RX7 "twin scroll" system
    You took the words right out of my brain. I'm sure baby small turbos wont see much gain just as it didn't in the RX-7 Turbo 2. In fact many people removed them and picked up power from the restricted flow. I think it's a pretty damm good idea for 37R's and up.

    Another question would be surge. Would some turbos just surge instead of a quicker usable spool? I'm sure the user would have to dial it in.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yusuf Begic View Post
    You took the words right out of my brain. I'm sure baby small turbos wont see much gain just as it didn't in the RX-7 Turbo 2. In fact many people removed them and picked up power from the restricted flow. I think it's a pretty damm good idea for 37R's and up.

    Another question would be surge. Would some turbos just surge instead of a quicker usable spool? I'm sure the user would have to dial it in.
    Yes if the turbo hot side is too small.

    On the turbos that have twin scroll entry usually the compressor isn't overly large compared to the turbine and there is a lot of extra flow in there.
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    I would really be interested in seeing some back to back testing with a 35R sized turbo with this device + HTA vs HTA vs stock Garrett. I won't be thinking about a new turbo until next summer sometime, so I'm really looking forward to someone else playing guinea pig on this.

    Although, it seems that 35R sized turbos may be the bottom end of the range of turbos that will show good gains with this unit. Either way, I'll be keeping an eye on this. It's exciting to watch how much further things seem to evolve over the years.
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    Is this the device that I saw on the precision turbo today at PRI?

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    This is why I love this hobby....people are ALWAYS trying to "build a better mouse trap"!
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    The above results and log files and chart was done back to back. Same road, same gear, same day, same temp etc.

    I turned it off (basically wire it shut) permanently and did the first run, which is basically as if the device wasn't there.

    Then I turned it on (so that it could swing and move) and did the same run and got those results. I'd say a good 700-1000 RPM spool increase on any turbo.
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    Does this device sick above the exhaust housing inlet flange at any point of its operation?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JerramyReay View Post
    Does this device sick above the exhaust housing inlet flange at any point of its operation?
    Sorry hadn't had my morning coffee yet! I meant to say, Does this device stick out above the exhaust housings inlet flange at any point of its operation?

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    I would imagine no. At full "off" it would act exactly like the middle divider of a divided housing. With it at full "on" it would cover the throat area of one side so as to direct all exhaust to the other.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake Lehmkuhl View Post
    I would imagine no. At full "off" it would act exactly like the middle divider of a divided housing. With it at full "on" it would cover the throat area of one side so as to direct all exhaust to the other.
    Correct, it does not stick above at all.
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    Just found this thread.

    All I can say is that if it's as good as it's supposed to be, it will be god send for us auto guys. It's always a trade up between the ability to spool quickly and having a tight enough converter. It should also help for those important first 20-30 feet when the motor is still in the lower revs. And who knows, maybe we could effectively use a 76 or 78mm inducer with this?

    Count me in for one.
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    Well, the cat's out of the bag now... So, my next turbo is going to be a T4 divided... Now, for my street machine, with 500 HP max goals, what compressor side do I need? Count me in.
    DD project: 1998 Eclipse auto AWD, SFP tubular manifold, 50 trim, .63 exhaust. Greddy IC, piping, exhaust, DSMLink, E85 and tuning..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Villeneuve View Post
    Just found this thread.

    All I can say is that if it's as good as it's supposed to be, it will be god send for us auto guys. It's always a trade up between the ability to spool quickly and having a tight enough converter. It should also help for those important first 20-30 feet when the motor is still in the lower revs. And who knows, maybe we could effectively use a 76 or 78mm inducer with this?

    Count me in for one.
    That and in-between gears re-spooling the turbo. And also just the all-around driving feel. My car feels so much more linear in response on the street.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dietrich Schuschel View Post
    Well, the cat's out of the bag now... So, my next turbo is going to be a T4 divided... Now, for my street machine, with 500 HP max goals, what compressor side do I need? Count me in.
    You're going to have an insanely fast spooling turbo if you're only shooting for 500HP. I would go for a GT30R or GT35R or the like with a twin scroll housing, the only thing is they are not stock parts from garrett. You would hvae to get it from ATP turbo and use their twin scroll additional housing option.

    Here's a post I found that you may want to read:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1643202

    Here's the BW turbo I would recommend:
    http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pro...9d48305edb74de
    http://automotive.miragecorp.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Villeneuve View Post
    And who knows, maybe we could effectively use a 76 or 78mm inducer with this?
    I have a 3.0L engine, so I'm a bit different, but I've already been pondering an 80mm inducer. I have a 74 on it now and I can only think the 80mm on the same frame turbo wouldn't add much to the lag at all.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dietrich Schuschel View Post
    Well, the cat's out of the bag now... So, my next turbo is going to be a T4 divided... Now, for my street machine, with 500 HP max goals, what compressor side do I need? Count me in.
    I'm on full boost at like 3800 on the HTA35R non divided. Spool device in a 1.0 A/R divided could be amazing. full boost on the low to mid 3000s and ~700whp on tap. That would be nutty.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Brilliant View Post
    I'm on full boost at like 3800 on the HTA35R non divided. Spool device in a 1.0 A/R divided could be amazing. full boost on the low to mid 3000s and ~700whp on tap. That would be nutty.
    Usually you can get 700-1000 rpm spool increase with my device. I get ~1000 rpm of extra spool on my car.

    So I would say you would spool fully right around 3,000 rpm. That's probably close to where the stocker spools
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisD View Post
    That and in-between gears re-spooling the turbo. And also just the all-around driving feel. My car feels so much more linear in response on the street.
    Well, I'm talking about a car that is specifically built for the drag strip. Also, respooling ain't much of an issue for our application.

    To further illustrate what I mean about the possible gains in the first 20-30 feet, just take a look at that video and listen. Car is pretty lazy down low.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WH6EIvjXBaM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Villeneuve View Post
    Well, I'm talking about a car that is specifically built for the drag strip. Also, respooling ain't much of an issue for our application.

    To further illustrate what I mean about the possible gains in the first 20-30 feet, just take a look at that video and listen. Car is pretty lazy down low.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WH6EIvjXBaM
    Jesus, can't believe how slow that thing is off the line. It must have one hell of a top end to be throwing those times out.
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    OK, well, notice that I have an auto and stock converter. I would like 5-10 psi at the line, around 2500 rpm, WOT and stutterbox. This is a daily driver, and I want street manners.

    If I choose a 1.00 turbine housing, would it act like a .50 with the flap closed?

    Who is going to make the housings and what turbine wheels are they going to support? That seems to be the constraint.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisD View Post
    Jesus, can't believe how slow that thing is off the line. It must have one hell of a top end to be throwing those times out.
    Keep in mind this car is traction limited badly off the line too. Don't confuse leaving at 4xxx rpm to having no power. I bet that was still a 1.4x 60'. Everyone says my car looks soft off the line, but leaving at 10-11psi and 4700rpm is all the tires will hold and it cuts low 1.3's like that. An auto car leaving in-power at sub-5k doesn't sound anywhere near as nuts as an AWD bouncing off an 8k 2-step and blazing the tires then bouncing off the 10k limiter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisD View Post
    That and in-between gears re-spooling the turbo. And also just the all-around driving feel. My car feels so much more linear in response on the street.




    You're going to have an insanely fast spooling turbo if you're only shooting for 500HP. I would go for a GT30R or GT35R or the like with a twin scroll housing, the only thing is they are not stock parts from garrett. You would hvae to get it from ATP turbo and use their twin scroll additional housing option.

    Here's a post I found that you may want to read:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1643202

    Here's the BW turbo I would recommend:
    http://www.full-race.com/catalog/pro...9d48305edb74de
    does ATP turbo sell divided housings for a 35R? I can't seem to find any. I'd like to run this spool device, on my 35R with a housing that will flow top end like my current .82 T3 does.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiggly View Post
    Keep in mind this car is traction limited badly off the line too. Don't confuse leaving at 4xxx rpm to having no power. I bet that was still a 1.4x 60'. Everyone says my car looks soft off the line, but leaving at 10-11psi and 4700rpm is all the tires will hold and it cuts low 1.3's like that. An auto car leaving in-power at sub-5k doesn't sound anywhere near as nuts as an AWD bouncing off an 8k 2-step and blazing the tires then bouncing off the 10k limiter.

    Kevin
    That's what I'm so used to. I can believe it can cut some nasty 60ft times with how fast that car looks up top. I've only seen the autos they have at the nopi nationals leave the line and they still use the anti-lag and a 7k launch and nitrous...but those things are pulling 1.0x 60's.

    Wish my car could launch like that it'd save a hell of a lot of money on replacement driveline parts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dietrich Schuschel View Post
    OK, well, notice that I have an auto and stock converter. I would like 5-10 psi at the line, around 2500 rpm, WOT and stutterbox. This is a daily driver, and I want street manners.

    If I choose a 1.00 turbine housing, would it act like a .50 with the flap closed?

    Who is going to make the housings and what turbine wheels are they going to support? That seems to be the constraint.
    Correct, a 1.00 turbine housing would be a .50 with the device active.

    These aren't new housings, but machined stock housings. Then you don't need all the different machine options for the wheels etc and also why it has to be on a twin scroll turbo.

    With a 2500 rpm it may be a bit hard to produce 5-10psi without a really small turbo. If a 35R fully spools at 3800 rpm, you're going to be at 2800-3100 for full spool. You may be close to getting the 5-10psi, but without hard proof I can't guarantee it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave K View Post
    does ATP turbo sell divided housings for a 35R? I can't seem to find any. I'd like to run this spool device, on my 35R with a housing that will flow top end like my current .82 T3 does.
    Yes, they sell t3 housings for the garrett gt series 30 frame turbos. It will work on the gt30-35 size turbos. It's hard to find on their site, but they are available. I have yet to hold one in my hand yet, but I'm 95% sure this will work on that housing.

    http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=HSG
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiggly View Post
    Keep in mind this car is traction limited badly off the line too. Don't confuse leaving at 4xxx rpm to having no power. I bet that was still a 1.4x 60'.
    That was a 1.60, not nearly as slow as it looks, but not great either.

    It is traction limited of course, but I always felt that the first 20-30 feet could be stronger. Beside, being able to spool quickly is something important when M/T guys start playing games at the line. We had a little shot of nitrous this year to help with that, but I hate having to use that stuff. It'll be out this year, no matter what.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisD View Post

    Yes, they sell t3 housings for the garrett gt series 30 frame turbos. It will work on the gt30-35 size turbos. It's hard to find on their site, but they are available. I have yet to hold one in my hand yet, but I'm 95% sure this will work on that housing.

    http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=HSG
    I knew about that one, but I'd want something bigger than that. I would prefer a divided T4 of some sort, for a 35R, that will flow as much as my .82 T3. That .78 is too small.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Villeneuve View Post
    It is traction limited of course, but I always felt that the first 20-30 feet could be stronger. Beside, being able to spool quickly is something important when M/T guys start playing games at the line. We had a little shot of nitrous this year to help with that, but I hate having to use that stuff. It'll be out this year, no matter what.
    I'm in the same boat, and I'm sick of the nitrous. I got it spooling just quick enough to make a pro tree, but I've been left on the transbrake too long a few times. And the different lengths of time on the transbrake resulted in different boost levels when I release the brake, which is a big contributor to my inconsistency in short times (1.20 to 1.40). I've been down to 1.20 sixty foots, but from 60 feet to 330 seems a little lazy looking at the boost curve. And I drop something like 10 psi on the shift. Spool is a big part of my offseason task list.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jewer View Post
    And I drop something like 10 psi on the shift.
    Wait... What?! How is that even possible? What RPM are you shifting at?

    I was having a hard time keeping my boost down - it creeps up top, and before the 1-2 shift. It must be the awesome power of my HKS 272's
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Glassbrook View Post
    Wait... What?! How is that even possible? What RPM are you shifting at?

    I was having a hard time keeping my boost down - it creeps up top, and before the 1-2 shift. It must be the awesome power of my HKS 272's
    Yea, that confuses me too. My auto car spikes 1.5 PSI on the shifts, zero drop-off. As long as you're keeping the gas floored I don't see any reason for boost to drop?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave K View Post
    I knew about that one, but I'd want something bigger than that. I would prefer a divided T4 of some sort, for a 35R, that will flow as much as my .82 T3. That .78 is too small.
    I'm not sure if anyone makes one other than going with a Borg Warner turbo.
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    Alright, looking back through the logs this is no longer a major problem, but it still sucks. I have to go back pretty far to find those big boost drops. Since the cam change and gear settings change, I only drop 3-5 psi on the shift. The scale on my logs still makes it look huge so I thought it was still up around 7-10 like the good old days. So, looking at my 8.97 at 156, the shift is at 9500 rpm, and rpm drops to 7200 in second. This is enough rpm to keep boost drop at 4 psi, from 38 to 34. In first I don't see anything resembling full boost (~34 psi) until 7k rpm. As long as shifts keep the RPM above 7k I don't see the 7-10 psi boost drops.

    4 psi is still a ton of power at this boost level, around 60 mustang whp if I remember correctly, and boost is down for a good length of time. Something in my setup kills low/midrange power (0-7k range), despite the small 1.01 turbine housing and cam changes; probably the intake manifold. I'm open to thoughts on that unit.
    Last edited by Kevin Jewer; 2009-01-07 at 16:46:43.
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    I am seriously confused. I understand how the device works etc.... but I'm looking at the logs and:
    Device OFF: 15.7psi @ 5500RPM
    Device ON: 16.5psi @4500RPM

    BUT!

    Device OFF spool time: 3.5sec
    Device ON spool time: 4.2sec
    And then you follow the graph it takes to reach 6400rpm:
    Device OFF total time: 4.0 seconds
    Device ON total time: 6.0 second

    The car with device off is literally twice as fast... it's boosting like crazy but makes NO power.

    As I said - maybe I'm just confused.... or maybe it just needs to be tuned for quick boost.
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    No your not confused you are being NABR. Those logs are not clear at all. Maybe a TPS overlay on them will help.
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    TPS is 100% during both of those logs. I don't have it on the log, but here's the AEM log for both




    The reason for the "total time" being longer during the "ON" phase is that it allows the turbo to spool more linearly. It allows boost to be made where boost normally cannot be made down low due to exhaust flow through the housing.

    This is why 67mm turbos on a 3L (or let's say 14b turbos on a 2L) feel so "linear" and you feel the pull throughout the whole RPM band. But then you slap on a GT42 and it feels like it takes forever to spool, but when it does HOLY SHIT hold on because it just HITS instantly.

    This is exactly what the logs show. A GT42 with the device off spools "instantly" and it's like an off/on switch. This is because once it gets enough flow through the turbine to start spooling, it instantly spools. What the device does is give it enough back-pressure to hold the amount of boost down low without stalling the compressor that it normally wouldn't be able to. Giving you more boost down low than you would normally have. Now, it can't spool "instantly" anymore because there isn't enough flow and pressure to support 30psi of boost pressure UNTIL the engine is producing enough exhaust flow.

    Bottom line is that you get an extra 1000RPM of power band. The GT42 with the device off "feels" faster because the power hits instantly and you go from 300HP to 900HP within .2 seconds. The downside to this is you immediately lose traction at that point and you really ARENT making more power...it's just feels faster because it goes from no power to full power instantly.
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    I concur. It takes considerably longer for the car to rev out with the device on than it does with the device off. That means the car is slower overall when you rev it all the way out with the device on, but we should have expected that.

    Normally it gets turned off when enough boost is achieved so you get the best of both worlds.

    Am I right or in the "on" test was the device operating normally so it shuts off at 9-10 psi as you've described. If that's the case, something is wrong or a different gear was used or something.
    Last edited by Mike McGinnis; 2009-01-24 at 14:45:38.

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    Key point here:
    As far as I can tell, the device is still not being correctly and automatically controlled. If it was, it would open at the right boost level and provide superior power at every engine condition.

    Saying it takes longer to spool is a straw man - it's already spooled while the device off is still waiting to spool up.

    If you want that comparison, why not have the engine at 4500 rpm and then slam the device on? Instant spool and you can impress your rider with a nice slam into the seat.

    I could imagine the correct controller would essentially be an internal waste gate control/rod that is set to the desired boost. So, as it detects desired boost, it opens up.
    DD project: 1998 Eclipse auto AWD, SFP tubular manifold, 50 trim, .63 exhaust. Greddy IC, piping, exhaust, DSMLink, E85 and tuning..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike McGinnis View Post
    I concur. It takes considerably longer for the car to rev out with the device on than it does with the device off. That means the car is slower overall when you rev it all the way out with the device on, but we should have expected that.
    I see what you're saying now. More power = the car should travel through the RPMs faster. Let me see if I can find a better log for comparison or a newer log.

    These logs were from when I had my injector phasing WAYYY messed up. It shows the increase in boost, but the phasing could cause the power to be way down obviously.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dietrich Schuschel View Post
    Key point here:
    As far as I can tell, the device is still not being correctly and automatically controlled. If it was, it would open at the right boost level and provide superior power at every engine condition.

    I could imagine the correct controller would essentially be an internal waste gate control/rod that is set to the desired boost. So, as it detects desired boost, it opens up.
    That is how it is being controlled, an internal wastegate hooked up to a boost source and it converts back to normal (both scrolls open) around 7-10psi.

    Theoretically it should be faster going through the RPMs. I could have sworn I was in the same gear on the same road during this test, but I'm pretty sure it's going to come down to tune. These were taken ~2 years ago when I first converted to e85 and was the last day before snow fell that I could get a test in.

    I'll take a look through some newer logs to let you know the time. I never looked at it that way, but makes 100% sense. It should "move" faster through the RPMs with more power.
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    I almost forgot. This was also when I had my timing around 15 degrees at redline, so power wasn't very big back when I first got it running.
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    Sorry guys, I looked at the speed on the two logs and it does indeed look like I was in 4th gear on the second run.

    I briefly looked at a newer log I had and the boost numbers are similar, and better in some situations in 3rd gear (more timing) and it does rev out faster from spool to 6400. A lot faster in fact, but some of that is due to the added timing in my newer logs.

    I wish I had two newer logs with the device off and on, but all of the new ones are with it on only. Once the snow melts I'll have to get some new ones for an apples to apples comparison of the new tune. I'll hopefully have some dyno charts soon as well.

    I can tell you that it definitely is faster with the device on, there's no question is produces boost a lot sooner. In some of the newer logs I have close to 20psi of boost by 4200, but obviously that's with the newer timing etc.

    I also need to get some new logs now that my injector phasing is corrected, I had it horribly out of whack with one of the values I must have accidentally changed.
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    Well, no, I would not expect a car to be any slower with the devcice properly installed in any car in any situation, unless there is a manufacturing / installation issue, and that needs to be disclosed. I.E. the device installed results in a turbine restriction or flow disruption, even when in open mode.

    I am also curious about the control setting - I would expect this to be controlled with a boost controller just like a waste gate , not pre-set like 7,9, or 11 psi. Because - if you open it too early, it results in a sag in the power band.

    To clarify, the device is on or off, and when it is on it is open or closed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike McGinnis View Post
    I concur. It takes considerably longer for the car to rev out with the device on than it does with the device off. That means the car is slower overall when you rev it all the way out with the device on, but we should have expected that.

    Normally it gets turned off when enough boost is achieved so you get the best of both worlds.

    Am I right or in the "on" test was the device operating normally so it shuts off at 9-10 psi as you've described. If that's the case, something is wrong or a different gear was used or something.
    DD project: 1998 Eclipse auto AWD, SFP tubular manifold, 50 trim, .63 exhaust. Greddy IC, piping, exhaust, DSMLink, E85 and tuning..

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    I call the device "on" when the gate is closing off one side of the housing. I call it "off" when it is in normal mode and the turbine flow is through both sides.

    You CAN use a boost controller if you like, but the nice thing is that once a turbo has started "spooling" where there is enough boost (and therefore creating enough exhaust gas) to support a specific MAP then it will continue to spool further up the surge line and produce more and more boost.

    If the device were to turn itself "off" too early and revert to full flow normal operation, it would create a "sag" in the power output where the boost would drop and then come back online (what you can see some supras do). If it's tuned properly for the turbo/engine it will work perfectly without any notice.

    On my car and with a GT42, this is ~7psi (and I assume the same will be for all GT42's) as once the turbo hit's that limit, it's going to spool. Kind of like what I was saying about the larger turbos being off/on switches. Once you hit the point of no return, that turbo is going to spool unless the gate opens or the throttle is let off.

    The external gate can be "tuned" to where you want it with a boost controller (bleeder type would work fine). But what I've seen is 7-10psi is perfectly fine for turning the device "off". I can't even notice the switchover...the only clue you have is a change in the exhaust note when it fully opens up. But on most cars, I'm assuming the 7-10psi wastegate spring will work fine and it is what I have on there default. It obviously can be changed as well if another pressure is wanted.
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    To clarify in the above post when I say "unless the gate opens" I'm talking about your actual external gate, and not the one hooked up to the device.
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    7 psi on a 3000gt is going to provide a lot more exhaust gas energy than a 2 liter at 7 psi. I might expect people with 2 liters to end up using a boost controller to get the switchover point up higher. Speculation of course based on what worked on your motor, someone will have to test it of course.
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    Just add some more food to thought.

    To get an honest result - you can't just compare device on and off - you have to compare it to a properly designed divided manifold. Otherwise you are just testing inefficiencies of divided housing in undivided environment.

    Why am I being skeptical? Well, it seems that all the flapper devices were done with in early 90s twin turbo setups - adding restrictions in the exhaust looked good on paper, but in reality just proved to be inefficiencies that hurt overall performance.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jewer View Post
    7 psi on a 3000gt is going to provide a lot more exhaust gas energy than a 2 liter at 7 psi. I might expect people with 2 liters to end up using a boost controller to get the switchover point up higher. Speculation of course based on what worked on your motor, someone will have to test it of course.
    Sure, but the thing is that it's exhaust gas flow that produces the boost. This is why on a 2L you don't spool up a little farther on. You still need the same amount of energy to spool the turbo up to a certain speed. So to produce 7psi on the same turbo a 3L would be on, you would need theoretically the same amount of exhaust gas.

    So basically what I'm saying is if your car gets the turbo up to 7psi, it's going to be flowing the same on the hot side that my car is...your car will just do it a bit later on in the RPM band. Therefore it should spool the same way mine does.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrei Mitine View Post
    Just add some more food to thought.

    To get an honest result - you can't just compare device on and off - you have to compare it to a properly designed divided manifold. Otherwise you are just testing inefficiencies of divided housing in undivided environment.

    Why am I being skeptical? Well, it seems that all the flapper devices were done with in early 90s twin turbo setups - adding restrictions in the exhaust looked good on paper, but in reality just proved to be inefficiencies that hurt overall performance.
    I'm not sure what you mean by a properly designed divided manifold. My car has full divided headers off of each bank of cylinders to the turbo. They are equal length all the way to the turbine housing of the turbo. So in "off" mode, the turbo is acting just like a fully divided turbo as if there was no device in there at all. When the device is "on" the only difference is the gate is shutting off one entry to the turbine housing. The manifold is still fully divided all the way to the turbo.

    Here's a dyno chart of a competitors product that doesn't allow for divided housings and it's an external piece:
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    I stand corrected on the divided manifold ... just waiting for results now.
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    A log where all things are equal except:
    unit used under normal operation so it's shut, then open when you want it to (at 7-9 psi or whatever is optimal)
    vs.
    open the whole time

    would be helpful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike McGinnis View Post
    A log where all things are equal except:
    unit used under normal operation so it's shut, then open when you want it to (at 7-9 psi or whatever is optimal)
    vs.
    open the whole time

    would be helpful.

    I would like to see this as well. If it works, it could help with my converter lock up
    phil@firstimpressionscollision.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake Lehmkuhl View Post
    Erron and I will put them through their paces. If they don't fail on the dyno they'll make it to the road course. If they live there I think anyone who drag races would be plenty happy with them.
    How do you anticipate them surviving under the stress of either anti lag or a 2 step?

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